Sicily’s East Coast

Strait of Messina

Leaving the Aeolian Island Chain we sailed southeast to the Strait of Messina, the relatively narrow channel between the Italian boot and the Sicilian football.

to Taormina-01The eastern tip of Sicilyto Taormina-04to Taormina-02 to Taormina-05to Taormina-06 to Taormina-03Tanker heading north above
Below, heading south, the boot is to the left,
football to the rightto Taormina-08to Taormina-13 Look closely at the photos below.
This is a sailfish fishing boat.
Note there is a spotter in the tower and
another on the long extension in front.
(Click on photos to enlarge)
to Taormina-09 to Taormina-12 to Taormina-11 to Taormina-10to Taormina-16 to Taormina-15 to Taormina-14 to Taormina-19 to Taormina-18 to Taormina-17

Taormina

Several hours cruising south of the Strait of Messina, Taormina was another one of our favorite locations, along with Procida (near Naples) and Malta (discussed in the next post).  It is somewhat smaller than Syracuse but cleaner and generally more picturesque.  When you anchor here, there is a small, fairly dreary area along the beach but the town itself is up some impossible switchback roads to a hill top area that is only outdone by progressively higher areas with various ancient fortifications.


Taormina-001Above courtyard dates back to
Greek settlements – a lovely site
encountered soon after our arrival.Taormina-028Lots of tourist shops.
We liked Greg’s sun-face
better than these

The Giardini della Villa Comunale isn’t the sort of park you’d expect in Sicily, since it’s something of an English garden, but it was the creation of a Scottish woman who lived in Taormina in the late 1800s. Lady Florence Trevelyan was asked to leave England in the 1880s after having a fairly public affair with the future King Edward VII. She eventually married in Taormina and began work on her gardens.


Taormina-005Views from the GardenTaormina-009Taormina-015Various odd structures where
Lady Florence hosted tea partiesTaormina-013 Taormina-017 Taormina-020Taormina-018And truly unexpected in an English Garden
is this bit of WW2 Italian naval history.
Ride that torpedo!
(Click to enlarge to read & see pictures)Taormina-012 Taormina-011 Taormina-010

The amphitheater at Taormina is the
second largest of Greek origin in the world
but we found it more impressive, if not
larger, than the one in Syracuse.Taormina-050The structures (including Roman
improvements) and the views from any
angle were just fabulousTaormina-053Taormina-052Taormina-051Taormina-056Taormina-055Taormina-054Taormina-060Diagram above, early 20th century photo belowTaormina-068Taormina-059Taormina-058Taormina-057Taormina-062Taormina-061Taormina-049Taormina-064Taormina-032Taormina-031Taormina-037Taormina-039BackstageTaormina-033Taormina-036Taormina-035Taormina-038Taormina-040Taormina-043Taormina-042Taormina-041Taormina-046Taormina-044Taormina-066Below is Andy (our skipper) with his
family, just arriving at the amphitheater
as we were about to leaveTaormina-065

Waiting for the bus to the higher fortifications
it was time for a little carb cheating:  pistachio gelato
Taormina-074(Janet did not consume this without help)
Taormina-075Then from the main town, already
up a steep ride from the bay, up we went
further to see ancient fortifications.Taormina-123 Taormina-078 Taormina-077 Taormina-076 Taormina-080 Taormina-079 Taormina-084 Taormina-083 Taormina-082 Taormina-087 Taormina-086 Taormina-085 Taormina-091 Taormina-090 Taormina-089 Taormina-088 Taormina-094 Taormina-093 Taormina-092Taorm-B1Taormina-117There is a little tourist town at the top
Taormina-121
Taormina-113 Taormina-122On the old fortifications and
views from this area…Taormina-099Taormina-107Taormina-096 Taormina-109 Taormina-110 Taormina-111 Taormina-112Taormina-095Taormina-115Just below the fort, lunch!Taormina-116

Syracuse

From Taormina it was a short cruise down to Syracuse, a larger city with a similar history extending back to when it was an important center of Greek culture.

Syracuse-A01Syracuse-A02Cruising south from Taormina we had
good looks at a smoldering Mount Etna
and exactly one half of the Italian
Navy’s aircraft carrier force.Syracuse-A03
The main historic area in Syracuse is on the
island of Ortigia, barely qualifying as an island
with a couple very short bridges connecting it to
the rest of the town.  Once on Ortigia, one quickly
encounters the Temple Apollo.  Of course what we
remember is that it had a great little sidewalk cafe
next to it with friendly service and one of the
better functioning wifi systems we encountered.Syracuse-A05 Syracuse-A04Syracuse-A06Syracuse-A10Along the inner harborSyracuse-A09Syracuse-A08Syracuse-A07Syracuse-A11At the aquarium.  Nice touch.Syracuse-A15
Outside the harbor (east side of the island)Syracuse-A14Syracuse-A13Syracuse-A12Syracuse-A19Syracuse-A18Syracuse-A17Syracuse-A16
Syracuse-A26The Duomo (Cathedral) was built in the 7th
century over the Greek Temple of Athena (5th
century BC).  The Arabs arrived in the 9th
century, converting it into a mosque.  Structures
from the original temple are still evident, inside
and out.Syracuse-A24Syracuse-A25Syracuse-A35Syracuse-A31Syracuse-A28Syracuse-B03VestibuleSyracuse-B08Syracuse-B07Syracuse-B06Above, below, original Greek columnsSyracuse-B12Syracuse-B04Syracuse-B09Syracuse-B14Syracuse-B13
Syracuse-B11Syracuse-B10
Syracuse-B05
Syracuse-A32Syracuse-A33The baptismal fount is also of
ancient Greek originsSyracuse-B20 Syracuse-B19 Syracuse-B18 Syracuse-B17 Syracuse-B16Saint Lucy, the city’s patron, has
a considerable showing here.
Syracuse-B15More touring around Ortigia…
Syracuse-A23Syracuse-A22Syracuse-A36On the second day we eventually left the
island of Ortigia and headed north on a
long, hot trek to find the amphitheater. As
mentioned, we were more impressed with
the somewhat smaller one in Taormina but
this one was big!  Syracuse-B28 Despite the efforts of Archimedes, after an
extended siege Syracuse fell to the Romans
in 212 BC and the Greek amphitheater got
another redesign.  The caves below were
carved out just above the back of the
amphitheater. We assumed that these were
the corporate boxes of the day.Syracuse-B29
Syracuse-B26Back around and down the hill were old
quarries. It wasn’t clear to us but the cave
below appeared to be natural and had
some very interesting acoustics. 
Syracuse-B33And this one had some cool shade and
a bench for a hot but smiling gal.Syracuse-B32Syracuse-B31Syracuse-B30
The next morning we headed out of
the Syracuse harbor but had some great
looks as we went.Sailing to Malta-2Sailing to Malta-4Sailing to Malta-5Sailing to Malta-3With good conditions, we set sail and headed
south for an overnight sail to the Island of Malta
Sailing to Malta-6Sailing to Malta-7Sailing to Malta-9Sailing to Malta-8…and watched the southeastern tip of
Sicily fall behind us.